Bird Bolivia Trip Reports

Serranía Sadiri

by A. Bennett Hennessey

For hundreds of years, people have been travlling between the towns Tumupasa and San José de Uchupiamonas, and further up into the Andes to the town of Apolo, on a well maintained foot trail which passes through many habitats of interst to birders. In 1999 this foot trail was upgraded (with little applciation of environmental migration measures) into a dirt road crossing over Serranía Sadiri (950 m) and Serranía Yuruma (850 m), allowing access to a relatively undisturbed Tropical Hill Forest habitat. The new road between the towns Tumupasa and San José de Uchupiamonas, now not passable to vehcile traffic, offers the best, accessible foothill forest birding (at 500 to 900 meters) in Bolivia. In 2001, locals said the road was in good shape for hikers all the way from Tumupasa up to the top of Serranía Sadiri, which is perfect for relaxed roadside birding. A good strategy would be to use the top of Serranía Sadiri either as a base for day trips or as part of a camping-birding hike along the unused road to the town of San José de Uchupiamonas. This hike does go over two Serranías, but could be done comfortably at "birding pace" by camping in the evening along one of the lowland rivers. Birds of the foothill forest habitat identified during a two day visit to Serranía Sadiri included: Band-bellied Owl, Plain Antvireo, White-bellied Pygmy-Tyrant, Thrush-like Manikin, Scaled Fruiteater, Sharpbill, Bronze-green Euphonia, and Slate-throated Whitestart. This is also the only accessible area in Bolivia where the Cinnamon-faced Tyrannulet can be found. Look for it on the top of the northern slope keeping an ear out for its whisper song.

One of the outstanding aspects of this area is the topography. The road is often only a few steps from the canopy, a roadside canopy walkway! See the Serranía Pilón section as similar foraging flocks are found. The community of San José de Uchupiamonas are interested in developing trails in the area and might combine Serranía Sadiri with a downriver San Jose-Chalalan tour (see site 48: Chalalan). Note: before planning a trip to this area, it is worthwhile to enquire with locals, the Chalalan eco-lodge office, or the park guard at the Madidi National Park office in Rurrenabaque about the condition of the road. The road was poorly constructed and is often washed out in several places.

The road to Serrania Sadiri leaves just east of Tumupasa, traveling 500 meters up the northern slope. The road is quite distinct as it travels up, up and up until it reaches a peak and then descends to a lowland river. We recommend making a little camp at this peak and birding the south side of Sadiri which is more productive with better developed, more humid foirest.

Logistics: The cheapest option is to hike in and camp along the roadside. From Rurrenabaque one should take the ferry (less than 25 cents) from Rurrenabaque to the sister town of San Buenaventura across the river. A bus to Tumupasa leaves from an office building located a block downriver from the ferry landing at least once a day. Be careful as the bus may be scheduled to leave at 9 am, but will leave as soon as the bus is full, SOMETIMES AT 8 AM.

Getting off the bus at Tumupasa, it is 400 meters back to the main road, backtracking past the toll poll (tranca) and a small river. For the return trip, a bus usually stops around midday in Tumupasa making the return trip to San Buenaventura. Transportation is variable between Rurrenabaque, Tumupasa and Ixiamas, but as long as the road is in good condition there will be some form of organized transportation between these towns every day. There is basic accommodation and a public phone in Tumupasa.

The Tumupasa to San José de Uchupiamonas trail could be used to create a very interesting birding loop, trekking form Tumupasa to San José de Uchupiamonas, then traveling down the Tuichi River by boat to Chalalan eco-lodge and returning by river to Rurrenabaque. This would best be arranged in the Chalalan office in Rurrenabaque. It is also possible to hire local guides from San Jose to accompany birders who may feel uncomfortable hiking it alone.

One could also rent a car with a driver in Rurre or maybe in San Buenaventura and repeat the same directions as above but by vehicle. If you plan to stay in the town of San José de Uchupiamonas, it would be preferable that you speak in advance with members of the community who work in Rurrenabaque for the Chalalan Ecolodge (trucks, pickups maybe even a bus might pass) that offer transport to Tumupasa for a minimal fee.