Bird Bolivia Trip Reports

Red-fronted Macaw Lodge

by A. Bennett Hennessey

Asociacion Armonia (BirdLife Bolivia) in its attempt to create sustainable conservation for the Red-fronted Macaw has supported the communities of Perrereta, San Carlos and Mureca in their creation of the Cabaña Frente-roja, financially supported by Naomi Lupka Trust, CEPA- Conservation des Espèces et des Populations Animales, and the Royal Zoological Society of Scotland Conservation Fund conservation effort. The lodge will be ready to open in May 2006, with running water, electricity, and capacity for 6 persons. Presently you will have to bring your own food, but there is a fridge and stove for meal preparation. We strongly suggest you try to visit this area to see the Red-fronted Macaw supporting efforts to combine conservation with local community support. Contact Bird Bolivia birdbolivia@unete.com.bo for reservations.

The Lodge is based facing a large cliff where the Red-fronted Macaw breeds with the Bolivian form of the Monk Parakeet (possibly a different species), Mitred Parakeet, and Bolivia Blackbirds (endemic). This desert habitat holds a bird community of around 100 birds, with such distinctive species as the White-eared Puffbird, Greater Wagtail Tyrant, White-tailed Plantcutter, Grey-crested Finch, Spot-fronted Woodpecker, Apolomado Falcon, Ultramarine Grosbeak, and Cliff Flycatcher. During the Red-fronted Macaw breeding season (November- to late April) the macaws are constantly present, seen flying in pairs, threes, and groups. Outside of the breeding season the Red-fronted Macaw is less common, but still seen daily as birds pause in the area, often being more common at dusk.

As in most desert environments, the best birdwatching is done close to the river. A nice long morning hike is to leave the lodge walking down towards the river. Follow the beach down river to the large footbridge, cross and travel up river along a trail which travels below the cliffs and eventually weaves up the cliff edge to the main road. You can birdwatch along the road back to the town of Perrereta and take the footbridge back to the lodge. The road usually has almost no traffic. The trail travels into two valleys with more Red-fronted Macaw nests. Go softly as though the macaws are usually up in the cliffs, at any time they can foraging in the trees and come to the river for a drink.

Another possibility is to walk down to the river from the lodge, and birdwatch upriver follow the trail on the edge of the aqueduct. This trail will take you to a along a cliff edge but to open up again into another forested area. Another taller forest that could be interesting exists down river on the San Carlos side passed the footbridge.

Also you can be guided to ancient Inca ruins an hours hike up the slope from the lodge.

Logistics: Please notify Bird Bolivia or Armonía before traveling to the area for 2006 as Armonía is working on guide and administration training. Unfortunately the area is of difficult access without a vehicle (read below). As it is called, the old road from Santa Cruz to Cochabamba is partially paved, traveling up the Andes to Samaipata and onward to Comarapa. In a vehicle you want to travel this road to the town of Samaipata- from Santa Cruz to Samaipata is about 3.5 hours drive. Land Haus offers clean rooms, with a restaurant and a nice salad bar. We also recommend Latin Café on the main paved street. In Samaipata you can check the Inca ruins and Site 40. From Samapaita you need to drive further along the paved road for 87 km, to the road block La Palizada. From here you are taking the dirt road to Sucre. This is a rough road with many tight turns which requires a few steep high altitude climbs- so make sure your vehicle is in good knick. One hour in, or 23 km you will come to the last town called Saipina. This is your last chance for fuel (a bit overpriced), cold drinks, hardware and luxurious supplies. Coming into Saipina, at the roundabout on the corner of the plaza, turn left and in a few meters you will pass over a bridge. From Saipina you travel another 42 km (65 km on dirt road) to the town of Perrereta. There is a government sign that has the name on it, but also Perrereta is distinct that the road comes to a tight curve right in the middle of the town (really just 20 houses along the road). We suggest asking for Don Martin for a place to park your vehicle. There is a 2 km walk to the lodge. You need to walk down to the river, take the footbridge across, and follow a farming field path to the main town of San Carlos and the far left to the lodge. Your drive from Santa Cruz to Perrereta could take 7 to 8 hours depending on how you go up hill and take tight turns.

Now it is possible to arrive without a vehicle, but a bit tricky. We have been told there is a bus that travels from Santa Cruz to Perrereta on Tuesdays and Fridays, and another from Perrereta to Santa Cruz on Thursday and Sunday. Ask birdbolivia@unete.com.bo for more info. There is also a daily micro bus to Saipina- where you would have to contract a taxi to Perrereta. Another option would be the daily many buses that travel to Sucre from Santa Cruz, but they pass around 3 am in Perrereta. I am sure you would be able to wave one down, at around the same time to return- but I would suggest trying to reserve a prepaid seat- though most likely that is too complicated for any of these bus companies.

Another option is to take a tour of the general area with birdbolivia@unete.com.bo. To make the trip more enjoyable, we suggest birding your way up to Samaipata, spending the night in Land Haus (cheap) or Campeche lodge (middle but very nice), and then birding and enjoying the drive to Red-fronted Macaw lodge. The trip is very scenic. The return trip is mostly down hill and can be done in one swoop without much problem.