Huni Pass (on the Palca Road)
by Lawrence Rubey
Huni Pass, on the road to Palca,
offers a taste of the dry valles of La Paz. Although rather
degraded and suffering from a disheartening litter problem, the area offers
some interesting birding less than 45 minutes from the city center of La
Paz. Because it offers incredible
views of both Mt. Illimani to the east and
the city of La Paz to the west, it is
quite popular with locals. Dusk is particularly beautiful as the setting sun
brings out the orange, red and blue hues in Mt.
Illimani,
which at 6,439 meters
is the second tallest mountain in Bolivia.
The small pond at Huni Pass
often has little more than a Common Moorhen or two. But the reeds at the edge
of the pond often attract Andean Hillstar which feed
quite conspicuously with tail feathers flashing. The hillsides surrounding the
lake are more promising. Among the ubiquitous Bar-winged Cinclodes,
Peruvian and Ash-breasted Sierra-Finches, you are likely to turn up an Brown-capped Tit-Spinetail,
Black-hooded Sierra-Finch, or Puna Yellow-Finch. Be
careful in identifying any Puna Yellow-Finches as
Greenish Yellow-Finch is common. Rufous-sided
Warbling-Finch, Spot-billed Ground-Tyrant, Rufous-naped
Ground Tyrant, and Rock Earthcreeper are also found
in the eroded canyons. Watch the sky for Andean Swift, Mountain Caracara,
Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle and even Andean Condor.
During the rainy season, the area has numerous flowering plants, attracting
Gray-bellied Flowerpiercer.
Some of the
nearby canyons, reminiscent of the American southwest, are worth exploring as
much for their scenic value as the Rusty-vented Canasteros
that call throughout the day.
Locals know the area as Cañon de la Animas and the stunning
rock formations attract non-birding hikers. A December 1995 municipal
resolution supposedly declared the area a "natural park," with the
intent to limit new construction and spur conservation of the area. However,
enforcement and follow-up actions have been non-existent.
Nearby is a well-known day hike to a extinct volcano plug: La Muela del Diablo (the
Devil's Molar). The Lonely Planet guide has good directions. La Muela
del Diablo offers similar species to the Huni
Pass site and possibly
better chances at Andean Condor, but can be a strenuous hike for those not
accustomed to the altitude.
Logistics: Coming from the city center, head south
towards the residential Zona Sur.
At the small bridge that marks the start of the Calacota
suburb (Plaza Humbolt will be on the right) re-set
odometer to zero (0.0). Follow the main drag (Avenida
Ballivian) into Cotacota,
passing McDonalds (1.0 km)
and continuing south where the street name changes, becoming Avenida Muñoz Reyes. Pass the
turn for Site 2 above (UMSA Botanical Gardens), continue travelling east on Avenida Muñoz Reyes through the neighborhood of Cotacota. The
road makes several sharp turns as it climbs uphill. The pavement gives way to
cobblestone. At 6.3 km,
turn right and continue to climb up a winding dirt road (the road to the town
of Palca).
At 10.8 km,
reach Huni
Pass with a small pond on
the right side of the road. Park on the right immediately
after the pond. Minibuses headed to Ovejuyo or
Palca can drop you off at Huni
pass and you can either hitch back or walk back five kilometers
(all downhill!) to a minibus stand.
GPS reading at Huni
Pass parking area: S 16
32.862 W 68 00.689