Cotapata Trail
by Lawrence Rubey and A. Bennett Hennessey
After centuries of settlement, very
few pristine examples of accessible upper Yungas
forest remain in the department of La
Paz or Cochabamba. Fortunately, the
Cotapata
National Park and
Integrated Management Area provide at least some nominal protection for upper Yungas cloud habitats. The Coroico Road
skirts the southern edge of the park and on the left-hand side of the road a
narrow trail (the "Cotapata trail")
provides hikers with access to the park.
Although most of the area is far
from pristine, the number of range-restricted species that have been recorded
on the higher parts of the Cotapata trail is
impressive. A full list appears in the Appendix. The endemic Bolivian-diademed Tapaculo was first discovered here by Bret Whitney in 1992
and still appears to be quite common. You will undoubtedly hear it sing,
although getting a good look is difficult. Rufous-faced
Antpitta, another endemic is also often heard with a
characteristic three-note song. The endemic Black-throated Thistletail
is also readily found skulking in the understory.
Sickle-winged Guan is only known in Bolivia from this site and the neighboring Zongo valley. Yungas Pygmy-Owl is also often heard. Other restricted range
species of importance recorded in Cotapata include:
Stripe-faced Wood-Quail, Black-eared Parrot, Scaled Metaltail,
Hooded Mountain-Toucan, Light-crowned Spinetail, Rufous-bellied Bush-Tyrant, Golden-collared Tanager, and
Orange-browed Hemispingus. But don't expect to see
all, or even most of these, in one trip; like many higher altitude sites,
diversity and abundance are low and birding at Cotapata
can be highly variable. On cloudy, misty days, one can encounter one foraging
flock after another, while on hot, sunny days, an hour can pass between birds
and the only sounds are those of insects.
From the "parking area"
at 3,200 meters,
the trail winds down over 300
meters into the Chairu river
valley. Fortunately, the upper part of the trail is usually the best.
Black-throated Thistletail and Rufous
Antpitta are likely right near the parking area
clearing. Listen also for the distinctive call of the Hooded Mountain-Toucan
here. The first hundred meters of the trail are marred by sounds from the sawmill and the forest is heavily disturbed. But the
next few hundred meters, with second growth, epiphytes and hanging tangles, can
be excellent. Watch for foraging flocks. Three-striped Hemispingus
can be seen travelling with Drab Hemispingus,
Blue-backed Conebill, and Plushcap.
Other flocks may include Citrine Warbler, Streaked Tuftedcheek, Streak-necked Flycatcher and a variety of
mountain tanagers. Light-crowned Spinetail is a
common member of foraging flocks and often can been seen foraging at the edge
of the trail.
After the first few hundred meters,
the trail begins a series of steep switchbacks down into the valley. For a
stretch, the vegetation is not nearly as attractive and the trail is somewhat
more overgrown. But take advantage of the frequent overlooks to listen for the
distant call of a Masked Trogon. After nine or so switchbacks, the trail
reaches a T junction. A right turn leads to a river bed and, further on, a
dilapidated gold mining camp. A left turn is probably the preferred option.
Winding around a steep ravine, the path is cut into sheer vertical rock.
Underneath the thick foundation of soil and vegetation on the path lies some
interesting stonework. Some say the path dates back to the Inca period.
White-crowned Tapaculo and Rufous-faced
Antpitta can be found here. More interesting forest
is soon encountered. Theoretically (that is if it is not too overgrown), one
could follow the path into the Chairu valley and hook
up with the famous Choro trail before the town of Chairo.
The trail is wide enough at some parts and gets so little foot traffic, that it
is possible to camp right on the trail, preferably at one of the wide hairpin
turns.
The new Cotapata-Santa
Barbara road, running on a ridge line northeast of the Cotapata
trail, will probably not have a great impact on the bird life of the area.
However, increased noise from road will undoubtedly lead to a deterioration of
the aesthetic enjoyment of birding this rich area.
Logistics: Continuing on the road to Coroico,
pass through a tunnel (35.4
km), a police checkpoint at 36.2 km, then pass the South Yungas turnoff (36.9 km). At 44.6 km, where the pavement
ends, arrive at Cotapata. A proverbial "blink
and you miss it" place, Cotapata is nothing more
than a sawmill, construction site and gas station on the left-hand side of the
road. Just to the left of the gas station, a narrow trail provides access into
the southern edge of the park. Cotapata National
Park is somewhat neglected and few signs exist
denoting the park boundaries. Economic activities such as mining and logging
continue within the borders of the park.
GPS reading at start of Cotapata trail: S 16 17.118'
W 67 51.072'