Choquetanga Valley
by Lawrence Rubey and A. Bennett Hennessey
The Choquetanga Valley provides a glimpse at the
diversity of the High Andes before intensive human habitation. The valley holds
a remnant Polylepis forest, one of the closest
to La Paz. The species, Polylepis racemosa,
is suited to semi-humid area and somewhat rarer than the Polylepis
species in Sajama
National Park and San Miguel in Cochabamba.
While the Polylepis forest above Pongo is somewhat disturbed and, as is often the case, more
scrub than forest, it still attracts of variety of Polylepis
specialties. Starting at an altitude of just under 3700 meters, the 225 meter climb to the Polylepis forest can be strenuous. Make sure you are
reasonably well acclimated to the altitude before attempting it. The path is
quite good, if a bit steep. Even if La Paz
temperatures are warm, be prepared for cold, foggy weather. Bring adequate
clothing and rain gear.
The key attraction in the forest is
the Ash-breasted Tit-Tyrant. An endangered and rare Polylepis
specialty known from a handful of sites in Peru, for years the only Bolivian
record was a 1935 specimen. Yet in 1993, Sjoerd
Meyer, a Dutch ornithologist, discovered and sound recorded a small flock of
Ash-breasted Tit-Tyrants in the Choquetanga Valley.
They appear to be resident and, based on about a half-dozen visits,
they are likely to be seen on over two-thirds of all visits. With their white
tail feathers and tendency to travel in small family groups, they are fairly
conspicuous.
Other species found in the valley,
some of which are at least partially Polylepis-dependent,
include: Olivaceous Thornbill,
Blue-mantled Thornbill, Tawny Tit-Spinetail,
Line-fronted Canastero, Giant Conebill
(occasionally- also seen flying away over the tops of the ridges),
Stripe-headed Antpitta, Puna
(Andean) Tapaculo, Brown-bellied Swallow and
Brown-backed Chat-Tyrant, Plain-colored Seedeater.
Andean Hillstar and Great Sapphirewing
can be found feeding when flowers are in bloom, especially near the stunted Gynoxys trees. A walk through the bunch grass at the
perimeter of the forest will likely flush a Scribble-tailed Canastero.
Cinereous Ground-Tyrant is likely on the way up or down. Finally, even Andean
Condor has been seen soaring overhead on rare occasions.
Unfortunately, the Polylepis forest in the Choquetanga
valley is under severe threat. Evidence of cattle grazing is everywhere.
However, cattle do not seem to penetrate the boulder fields where Polylepis have established as stronghold. Burning of the
hillside grasslands also threaten the small patch of forest. Asociacion Armonia is working
with the local community of Pongo to protect the
area. The community have declared that they will no
longer burn the grass in the area, and will create a protective wall around the
forest. In 2006, Armonía will begin a reforestation project and try attempt to develop a tourism structure in the area. If you
want to help the effort, after your birding adventure, celebrate with a Pongo farm raised fresh trout lunch or dinner in the stalls-
and declare loudly that you are tourists who came to enjoy the Choquetanga forest.
Located in the valley just below
the food stalls on the paved highway, Pongo town
itself can have some interesting species in the exotic plantations and
flowering bushes. White-browed Conebill and
Brown-backed Chat-Tyrant are notable.
Logistics: Pongo is a small
town just off the Coroico road. Townspeople operate a
number of food stalls which line the Coroico road and
provide a convenient place to park. At the La Cumbre (see Site 5
above) re-set your odometer to zero (0.0 km). Continue down the Coroico
road until you see the Pongo food stalls on your
right (14.5 km
from the Cumbre). Park your car (or get off the bus)
at the food stalls. From the parking area in front of food stalls, orient yourself to the north. Head back up the road 50 meters or so, cross
the paved road and begin a steep climb (north) into the Choquetanga
valley on the small path that parallels the left-side of the waterfall. After
10 minutes or so, reach the "first level" with a small pond and
beautiful views of a second, larger waterfall to the north. The sheer cliff
face of the second waterfall makes a direct assault impractical. Facing the
second waterfall, look to the right and you can see a path running along side
of the valley which will serpentine your way up and eventually to the
"second level" area that is just above this second waterfall. As you
surmount the "second level," the second waterfall will be on your
left. You may find the path blocked with rocks; the rocks are to prevent
animals grazing in grasslands further up the path from wandering too far. Once
you arrive above the waterfall (you will pass it on your left as you climb the
trail), walk due north for a couple hundred meters until you reach the Polylepis forest at the base of a large
boulder field. Smaller remnant Polylepis is
also found further up on a "third level." The total climb from food
stalls to the forest is about an hour without birding or rest stops. Charles Hesse wrote, “I found the Ash-breasted Tit-Tyrants on the
tiny patch on the 3rd level. Here I found Line-fronted Canastero
and Giant Conebill at the same time. Great
place, especially the second time I went there and it didn't rain so much.”
GPS reading at Pongo food stalls (roadside parking area): S 16 19.443 W 67
57.216
GPS reading at the Polylepis forest: S 16
19.501 W 67 57.247