Bird Bolivia Trip Reports

Apolo

by A. Bennett Hennessey

I think the Apolo area is a fantastic part of Bolivia and Madidi National Park that deserves more attention. But the logistics are difficult, so Apolo is not a spot one can place on a 10 site, two week Bolivia visit. The problem is the area is not very well developed to receive tourists- which we know for some of you would be a positive point. A visit to Apolo would include traveling through lush cloud forest, from 3500 down to 2000 m, searching the dry forests of Machariapo valley along the road, and visiting odd inter-Andean savannah relicts with 20 savannah species. Searching the forest fragments to find the Bolivian endemic the Palkachupa Cotinga, once considered a subspecies of the Swallow-tailed Cotinga.

Semi-Humid Forest and savannahs

The main bird species here is the Bolivian endemic Palkachupa Cotinga. This bird is best seen around its collected locality of 1902, the town of Aten. Around this town, you can find many of the other semi-humid forest species and savannah species. If you enjoy hiking, from the centre of Apolo you can take two mule trails that travel up the plateau to another area of savannah and forest fragments where the Palkachupa is seen occasional. You would need to ask for directions to take the trail to Sarayo, or the Senda to San Jose. We recommend a guide and mules and if this is your route, you should notify Madidi National Park office in Apolo.

Cloud Forest

Most of the cloud forest you will find on the road traveling to Apolo. This is some fantastic forest well worth birding for a few days. Keep an eye out for Oilbirds along the road. Also a newely made road from Apolo to the town of Pata travels through a fairly interesting cloud forest. We have heard Chestnut-crested Cotingas and Cock-of-the-Rocks here.

Inter-Andean Dry Forest

Apolo is the access point to the Machariapo and Tuichi isolated Inter‑Andean dry montane forest (800 to 1300 m) within Madidi National Park. This large rain shadow dry forest is a fairly unique ecosystem and offers many bird species more common to Chaco and dry forests south of Santa Cruz city like Ochre‑cheeked Spinetail, Rufous Casiornis, Black‑capped Antwren, Black‑bellied Antwren, and Saffron‑billed Sparrow. But also because of its highland location the area shares species of Andean river valleys and middle montane forests like Yungas Manakin, Plain Antvireo, Pale‑edged Flycatcher, White‑winged Tanager, Two‑banded and Golden‑crowned Warbler. This area, only accessibly by a 45 km footpath, is of difficult access, but may be worth the extra work for some of you to see three very rare Neotropical bird species: the threatened Military Macaw, the Rufous‑vented Ground‑Cuckoo and the political Endemic and threatened Yungas Antwren. This is the only dependable site in Bolivia for these three birds. A one week (7 days) camping tour to this area should provide at least 140 dry forest and middle montane bird species plus observations of at least one Rufous‑vented Ground‑Cuckoo, one Yungas Antwren and many Military Macaws. The dry forest also appears to have high numbers of some of the more difficult to identify Flycatchers, giving repeat performances of some of the finer details. Remember the 5 keys to Neotropical Flycatcher Identification: breast, head, back, wingbar and bill coloration.

Military Macaws are common lower down the trail within the Tuichi Valley. There is no particular site for them, but their loud screeches will often give them away, whether in flight or if lucky perched for close views. Approximately three kilometres up stream of the usually dry river bed of the appropriately named "Rio Seco" before crossing Rio Tuichi to Asariamas is an occasionally used Kopa where in July 2000 Bennett saw 48 Military Macaws, 18 Mealy Parrots and 6 Blue‑headed Parrots chewing the cliff edge soil. This would be an early morning activity and the incredible raucous gives the site away, but they are not always present.

The Rufous‑vented Ground‑Cuckoo can be observed on the trail throughout the dry forest, more common in the Rio Machariapo valley. The birds are quite skittish and will dodge away through the forest undergrowth, but with patience and slow quiet birding one should be able to observe one unaware.

The Yungas Antwren will require a bit of research into their plumages‑especially the female. This is a skulker bird frequenting the moist river valleys of the small wet montane streams on the trail. The birds have always been observed in their sexually dimorphic pairs with 2 to 4 species understory foraging flocks, seeking insect food in vine tangles 1‑7 meters above the ground. For best results, we recommend keeping an eye out for these birds in the early morning. Traveling to Asariamas, the birds have been observed along the trail climbing the moist valley just after Estancia Tuichi (the only large clearing on the trail). Also birds are present in the thin moist valleys in the Machariapo valley after the road turns into the trail. This bird very reluctantly sings, but listen out for the chips and psss of foraging flock call notes.

Logistics: There are no flights to Apolo. The easiest way is to rent a car to visit the area, being very independent with sleeping bags, camping equipment and food. With a rental car you can camp and make several stops along the yungas (Cloud forest) road to Apolo. Other than renting a car, the only other option is a camioneta (jeep) from La Paz, a 16‑hour road trip that often results in arrival in Apolo at around 4 am. The camionetas to Apolo leave from Calle Vicente Ochoa, Zona El Tejar (Detras de las Canchas, behind the football pitch). The agency is called TransApolo. Make sure you reserve the front seat, or the row just behind the driver. They overfill these jeeps. The most comfortable option is to purchase the two seats in the front just for one person, or purchase two seats in the row behind the driver- so you will only have to share the seat with two other people. Never travel in the far back seats- which expand the meaning of the word uncomfortable to painful depths. Without a vehicle in Apolo, you can get taxis to drop you off at certain destinations, or hike in with a sleeping bag (like the trails to Sarayoj and San Jose de Uchupiamonas). It is also possible to rent a motorcycle for the day- but you need to negotiate that with someone.

In Apolo you can stay in the Monasterio de Nuestro Senora de Nazareth hermana Cistercienses Tel. 01022136801 which has clean rooms, inexpensive meals and a relaxing atmosphere (birdbolivia@unete.com.bo can make reservations). I have been told of a new hotel in Apolo that is pricier- all other hotels should be avoided.

From Apolo you can make three road trips to different habitats, though be warned that the road might not be fully open. The road to Santa Cruz de Valle Amena and then Pata, will take you through an interesting dry scrub habitat in Santa Cruz, then Cloud forest and eventually semi-humid forest. The road to Assariamus will take you through an interesting area of dry forest. And the road to Aten will bring you to Palkachupa.

To go to Aten from Apolo take the road back to La Paz approximately 5 km to a turn off on the left going to Aten. This main road goes to the village of Aten, where they have some locally used forest trails. The villagers know the Palkachupa Cotinga well, and will be willing to take you to see the bird. They are helping Armonía (BirdLife in Bolivia) with a Palkachupa conservation project, so it would be nice if you could pay someone to take you to see the bird. This way tourism is beneficial to the bird. Please explain why you are visiting, and be courteous.

The main road to Apolo is the road to Charazani (Achacachi-Carabuco-Escoma-Charazani-Apolo). It is dirt road (read mud road in the rain) that travels along the flat Altiplano, and then passes over the Andes and down through the moist Yungas where there are often delays after strong rains.

From La Paz one can call Pancho and his wife Susana Novack in Apolo (they speak English; 0811‑9211 Entel or 0811‑9268 Apolo) to organize a birding trip down the Machariapo and Tuichi Valleys on the Apolo‑Asariamas footpath. Pancho is very familiar with the area and can provide a decent non‑complicated trip, supplying all food and transport but you need to have tents and camping gear. Pancho designs trips for the backpacker market, so you will need to explain to him that you want to see birds, and be firm with your demands, like sleeping in natural settings and not ranches. Backpackers don't care, but for us, why miss a chance at a potential new Owl.

Once in Apolo, if you don't want to pay the extra money for logistical help you can take that role yourselves. The owners of Hotel Centenario on the main plaza can put you in touch with people familiar with the footpath to Asariamas who would be able to carry your gear on a mule, make camps and cook dinner. In 2000 workers in Apolo were 40 bs and mules 70 bs a day. Mules add a few complications as they need to feed in grassy areas, but you feel less guilty than watching a man suffer with your pack. In 1999 they began making a road down the Machariapo valley, which in 2000 is mostly washed out. We recommend you rent a motorcycle (moto taxi) to drop you off at the end of the road (approx. 14 km), after most of the disturbed habitat on the road. Here, plan to meet up with the mules and where to camp every half days walk or how ever suits your trip. We prefer walking ahead birdwatching, and having the workers meet us during midday with lunch and an idea of our progress and a good camping spot. To get to the Tuichi Valley, we recommend planning for a trip around 7 days. The trail climbs up and over three 150 m hills. Try to suggest that you would like to camp away from noisy rivers and the few ranches (and their roosters) in the area. You can also ask for more information through Bird Bolivia (birdbolivia@unete.com.bo ).