Apa Apa
Reserve
by Lawrence Rubey and
A. Bennett Hennessey
Apa-Apa Ecological Reserve, part of the Portugal
families Apa-apa Hotel, located just north of the
town of Chulumani, is one of the best “accessible”
sites in Bolivia for middle-montane Yungas species. Although access is a bit difficult,
this is a premier site that offers a host of interesting species. This is the
only site in Bolivia
where the Scimitar-winged Piha has been commonly
seen. Other key species for this site include Hooded Tinamou,
Rufous-faced Antpitta,
Short-tailed Antthrush, Scarlet-breasted Fruiteater, Chestnut-crested Cotinga
(scan the tops of the forest in open areas), Straw-backed Tanager, Versicolored Barbet, Yungas Manakin, and Slaty Finch. Joseph
Tobias has reported Oilbirds drinking from a small pond on the summit.
“Arriving from the Chulumani side, a small
half-hidden path runs off to the right at the very summit of the road. This
path passes an obvious pond after 40
m or so. The Oilbirds come to drink or bathe at the pool
from just after dark.” This suggests that there is an Oilbird cave nearby which
is probably active from September to March.
Unlike much of the La Paz Yungas,
where accessible forests are dominated by second-growth and logging has wiped
out many of the larger trees, Apa-Apa is mostly a
virgin forest. That it survives to this day is largely a tribute to the Portugal family
and strict community prohibitions on logging and land clearing in the forest.
The forest was once part of a large coca estate that was broken up in the land
reforms following the 1952 revolution. The Portugal's, whose ownership of the
estate dates to the 1600s, still live in the valley below the forest and are
working to promote sustainable eco-tourism in the forest. They also run the Apa-apa Hotel, which can receive guests from Chulumani.
Apa-Apa can be approached from the trails from the Apa-apa hotel, about an hours walk from the hotel, or along
the main road. Most birding is done from either the road that runs from San Cristobal, through the
forest, to the village
of San Isidro on the
other side of the serrania or from the
Portugal Hacienda winding up into the forest. Fortunately, the San Isidro road sees
little traffic (one or two vehicles per day), while
the Hacienda road eventually becomes a narrow track suitable only for foot
traffic. From either San Cristobal or Hotel Apa apa,
the real forest begins at about 2,150 meters after passing through
second-growth forest and recently burned areas. Foraging flocks can be
encountered anywhere from here. From 2150 meters, both roads
climb to intersect the summit at about 2450 meters. Listen for
Rufous-banded Owl here at night. The other side of
the summit is significantly drier and the road descends into the village of San Isidro. Nearly 150 species have been
recorded in Apa Apa and this number is likely to
grow as more research is conducted.
Logistics: Chulumani, a
pleasant village in the Yungas, is on the South Yungas Road
(not this is one of those steep edged Andean roads that requires an experienced
driver), less than four hours from La Paz.
(Chulumani is only 115 kilometers
from La Paz, but such distances
are deceptive given the quality of the road). The best way to visit Apa-Apa ecological reserve is to contact Ramiro, Andrea or
Tilde Portugal
in Chulumani at 0-2213-6106 (you can try to make a
reservation at apapayungas@hotmail.com). Tilde Portugal speaks English. If you
cannot get through as a last resort you can attempt to phone Ramiro’s son
Gabriel Portugal (tel 2793899 o cel.
77531153) in La Paz. The Apa-apa hotel is nestled in a valley below Apa-Apa
Forest and offers hiking
trails into the forest. Accommodation is available at the Apa apa hotel (limited
number of rooms plus camping). The price for the hotel is around 8 US$ per
person, lunch and diner is around 2 US$. One can make a reservation at the Apa-apa hotel from La Paz, and then take
a local bus to Chulumani (see a Bolivia guide
for bus info) and phone the Apa-apa office in Chulumani.where
they can pick you up in their vehicle. There is also a one time obligate 25 US$
fee for a guide tour of the forest trails.
The Portugals
own the Apa-apa ecological reserve. If you wish to
enter the area for the day on the road or stay at a different hotel, we
strongly suggest you contact the reserve with the contact information mentioned
above to request entrance permission and the day fee.
If you have a larger group, or need
a hotel closer to La Paz, an excellent option
is to back-track to 21.2 km
to Puente Villa (the main bridge). Just after the Puente Villa bridge (remember
you are back-tracking travelling from Chulumani to La
Paz) is the Hotel Tamapaya. Coming down from La Paz,
before you reach the Unduavi river
and the Puente Villa bridge, there is a turn off to the left with the sign
Hotel Tamapaya. The grounds offer good birding and a
double room is less than $30. Recently the La Paz
office has been closed, but reservations for Hotel Tamampaya
and Hotel Apa apa can be made through birdbolivia@unete.com.bo.
For those intent on visiting
with your own vehicle re-set your odometer at zero at the start of the South Yungas road. At 69.5 km on the South Yungas road arrive at the village of San Cristobal. The road actually
enters the main plaza
of San Cristobal
(1900 meters
elevation). At the plaza re-set odometer again to zero (0.0). Instead of
bearing right and continuing to Chulumani, bear left
around the plaza, and make a sharp right turn at the street corner dominated by
the pink church. Following the street uphill (can be rough going!), the road
forks in three directions after 100 meters or so. Take the central fork,
keeping the houses on your immediate right. Continue climbing, passing modest
farmers' houses and cross a soccer field. At 5.8 km on this access road,
the forest begins. A wider part of the road can be found at about 7 km where it is possible to
park or even camp. The summit (2450 meters) is reached at 8.7 km from San Cristobal
Plaza. If you plan on
using public transportation and hike in, get the bus to Chulumani
and ask to be let off the bus at San Cristobal (but
notify Apa-apa ecological reserve before hand).
GPS reading at point on access road where forest begins: S 16 20.971' W 67
30.569'